Duration: 50 Days
Best Time: Mid May – End August
Broad Peak is named for the immense bulk and because of its breadth at the top and its local name is ‘Falchan Kangri’. It has a strong presence in its environs neighboring K2.
Broad Peak is one of the 8000m peaks which towers above Concordia at the heart of the Karakorum Range dominating the entire scenario ahead of Baltoro Glacier. It lies on the Pakistan/China frontier between K2 and the Gasherbrum peaks. The first ascent of Broad Peak was made on June 9, 1957 by Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger, and Hermann Buhl of an Austrian expedition led by Marcus Schmuck. This was also accomplished without the aid of supplemental oxygen or high altitude porters and without base camp support.
The route involves climbing through a rock gully to Camp I (6000m) then by following a large snow face we reach CII at around 6400m. A final camp is placed at 7400m from where a summit bid is made.
The climbing will not be extremely steep but the remoteness of the setting will make this an especially rewarding experience. Whether this is your first 8000m peak or your third, the nature of climbing in this region will have its own unique flavor.
There have been several winter expeditions to Broad Peak since 1987/88 when Andrzej Zawada, a noted Polish climber, considered a pioneer of winter climbing in high mountain regions led the first. In the winter of 1987/88 he organized and led the first International Winter Expedition to K2 with climbers from Poland, Canada, and Great Britain. When they failed to achieve their objective on K2, his team members Aleksander Lwow and Maciej Berbeka attempted Broad Peak and they only reached the Fore Peak. None of the five 8000 meter peaks in Pakistan have been climbed in the winter this far.
The new route up the South West Face was climbed by Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov in Alpine style in July 2005. Valery Babanov and his partner Victor Afanasiev climbed Broad Peak central pillar up the West Face via a variation route in alpine style in 2008.
After a long jeep drive up the picturesque Shigar Valley to Askole the trek to base camp and each night we camp out as we walk up the valley with our crew providing entertainment and colour to the otherwise wild and barren countryside and reach the base camp in eight days with one or two days rest en-route.
Our next camp is Paiyu, the last campsite before the beginning of the Baltoro glacier. Then the route to Broad Peak follows the opposite (true left) side of the Baltoro, passing spectacular views of the Trango group, trekking for a further 3 days to reach the base camp.
Day 01 Islamabad
Day 02 Islamabad
Day 03 Skardu/Chilas
Fly to Skardu. In case of cancellation of flight drive to Chilas (480 km).
Day 04 Chilas/Skardu
Day free at Skardu. If you are driving, complete road journey (07-08 hrs) to Skardu (275 km) En-route have good views of Nanga Parbat (8125m).
Day 05 Askole (3000m)
By jeeps drive to Askole (6-7 hrs).
Day 06-11 Trek to Broad Peak Base Camp.
Day 12-41 30 days for acclimatization and climbing.
Day 42-47 Trek back to Askole or Hushe via Gondogoro La and drive to Skardu.
Day 48 Islamabad/Chilas
Fly to Islamabad. In case of flight cancellation drive to Chilas.
Day 49 Islamabad
Leisure day at Islamabad. In case of driving, complete rod journey from Chilas to Islamabad.
Day 50 Islamabad
Farewell meet. Transfer to airport for your return flight home.