Baltoro Glacier in the Concordia region which is home to some of the highest peaks of the world. Chogolisa has several peaks; the highest on the SW face (Chogolisa-I) rises to 7,665 meters (25,147 ft). The second highest at 7,654 meters on the NE side (Chogolisa-II) is the one named Bride Peak by Martin Conway in 1892.
In 1909, a party led by Duke of the Abruzzi reached 7,498m from a base camp located on the northern side and a high camp on the Chogolisa saddle at 6,335m. Bad weather stopped the party from ascending further.
Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemberger attempted Chogolisa in 1957 after they had successfully summitted Broad Peak behind Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller a few weeks earlier. On June 25 they left camp-I and camped in a saddle at 6,706m on the SW ridge. Bad weather forced them to retreat and on June 27, Buhl fell through a cornice and disappeared. His body has never been found.
In 1958, a Japanese expedition from Kyoto University led by T. Kawabara made the first ascent of Chogolisa-II, placing M. Fujihira and K. Hirai on top.
The first ascent of Chogolisa-I was made on August 2, 1975 by Fred Pressl and Gustav Ammerer of an Austrian expedition led by Eduard Koblmuller. Koblmuller almost suffered the same fate as Buhl, as he also fell through a cornice on the ascent; fortunately, he was roped and team members were able to pull him to safety
DAY | ITINERARY |
Day-01 | Islamabad: Paper work with Alpine Club of Pakistan |
Day-02 | Drive to Chilas on Karakorum highway 11-12hrs 461km |
Day-03 | Drive to Skardu along with Indus River 8-9hrs 290km |
Day-04 | Drive to Askoli 6-7hrs 3000m |
Day-05 | Trek to Jhola 5-6hrs 3200m |
Day-06 | Trek to Paiyu 6-7 hrs 3450m |
Day-07 | Free day in Paiyu |
Day-08 | Trek to Urdukas 6-7hrs 4050m |
Day-09 | Trek to Goro-II (5-6hrs) 4380m |
Day-10 | Trek to Concordia 4-5hrs 4700m |
Day-11 | Trek to Chogolisa base camp |
Day-12/35 | 24 days for climbing |
Day-36/40 | Trek down to Askoli or Hushe via Gondogoro La Pass |
Day-41 | Drive to Skardu 6-7hrs |
Day-42 | Drive to Chilas 8-9hrs |
Day-43 | Drive to Islamabad 11-12hrs |
Day-44 | Paper work with Alpine Club of Pakistan |
Day-45 | Transfer to Islamabad airport for international flight |
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